Before you start running wiring of any type, or cutting holes in your trailer, sealing up walls, etc.  Or starting any type of anticipated power. You need to consider all options hard, before not starting with a Converter-Charger unit.

These units are the heart of a safe and well wired electrical system.

A Converter-Charger unit will provide various minimum requirements.  Basic requirements you might otherwise have to cobble together out of multiple other electrical components.  Or perhaps inadvertently omit not knowing better.

In the long run, the correct Converter-Charger will most likely save you money, provide required safety features, and in the end create a much more organized electrical installation.   Best of all you won’t be tearing up your build after the fact.

Most techs that work on any kind of electrical system, will tell you a neat and tidy installation is usually one that does not have faults and failures that require constant troubleshooting.  If your installation looks like a mess, it most likely is exactly that electrically.  A recipe for an unsafe build.

All trailer conversions that are going to eventually attach to a 110VAC source such as park power, your home via an outside outlet and extension cord, or a generator producing 110VAC, should in all cases have at least a Main Circuit breaker at the “Minimum Point of Entry” inside the trailer.

Minimum Point of Entry commonly refers to somewhere 3 foot or less of the main entrance Power wire.  At that point there should be at least a main shut off breaker.  This is for your safety as well as those around you.   For fire safety as well as electrocution safety.

Most RV trailers, with one Air Conditioner, commonly operates on the assumption of using 30amp service. Via a minimum #10 Three conductor umbilical extension cord.

Larger set ups with two Air Conditioners, or trailers with heavy power requirements, will require 50amp service panels and umbilical cable to handle that load.

The Power ground should also be grounded to the metal trailer frame and metal skin.

We are only covering the more common 30amp configurations.

What does a Converter-Charger provide?

  • Main Breaker for the 110VAC main service power umbilical
    * Multiple Branch Breakers for 110VAC Trailer circuits (outlets-lights-Air Conditioner)
    * 110VAC Neutral Buss Bar
    * 110VAC Ground Buss Bar
    * 12VDC Battery (+) Positive side Multiple Fuse distribution panel
    * 12VDC Common (-) grounding point to run all 12VDC grounds to
    * 12VDC Battery Charger -Smart Charger – Internal Charger Cooling Fan
    * Fused Battery to Battery Charger connection terminal.
    * Reversed battery wire polarity protection
    * Ground Connection point to ground electrical to metal trailer frame & skin

    When unplugging 110VAC power from a source like Park Power all your 12VDC circuits are still live via your trailer’s 12VDC Auxiliary Battery. No need to remember to flip switches or manual things like that.

Our recommendation is the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045.

There are other configurations that Progressive Dynamics builds in other amp values. There is also another widely used manufacturer, WFCO.  WFCO also builds various units. Both of these manufacturers units are found in the majority of all commercially built RV units.

We like installing parts and components that are easily found both 0n-line, and off the shelf in RV Parts/Suppliers, or even common hardware stores. You never know when you may have to do a replacement during an “on the road” failure. The PD-4045 is widely available on Amazon, at RV dealers, and in stores like Camping World.

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